De wereld is weer een 8C+ boulder rijker: Create From a Black Lagoon. De eerste beklimming komt op de naam van wie anders dan Daniel Woods!
Op Instagram ligt Woods toe hoe de beklimming tot stand kwam en, misschien nog wel belangrijker, waarom hij de boulder het stempel 8C+ waard vindt:
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finally climbed the black 90 last night aka "creature from the black lagoon." This thing turned into a mind fuck battling conditions, altitude, and ups and downs with fitness. From day one I could do all the moves and link a few at a time. As days went on links increased. I finally got to the point where I was sure it was in the bag. More days passed and I continued to fail. I would link multiple times from just 3 moves in to the top, but could never add in the first 3 relatively easy moves. This tripped me out considering that the Boulder had essentially been climbed haha. I became worried that I had already mind fucked myself and would have to wait for a new season to start fresh and see the bloc through with another set of eyes. Motivation to climb something is funny in that way. I go through this same struggle with everything challenging that I try. I beat myself up because I know it's there and overcoming mental disbelief is the most satisfying feeling for me in climbing. I had false confidence in the beginning with this thing, and that is what led me into a war of attrition. Luckily, can just look back at all those failed attempts over the course of 15 days and smile. As for how hard this thing is? that is a question that will obviously be thrown around, accepted or bashed. For me to compare it to other 15s I've done, analyze the breakdown (to me it felt like v15 to get into the stand of leviathan, no rest, then soft 11 to the top) then come up with a number to represent the climb is difficult. I believe this line is harder than most 15s I've done so why not call it 16… If train is ran on it and consensus calls it 15, then that is all good. @dave_graham_ and I have talked a lot about the progression of grades and try to understand what would make something 16. We are left dumbfounded to realize that the same level in bouldering has maintained from Fred Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and Klem loskot a decade ago until now. We can either acknowledge what is a level up from the standard of 15 (based off of consensus over the years) or continue climbing v15 for another decade. @dave_graham_ is close to the roof and I am stoked for that moment to come when he sends!
Na Hypnotized Minds en The Process is dit de derde 8C+ die geopend wordt door Woods. Daarnaast klom hij meer dan twintig boulders gewaardeerd met 8C. Recent konden we Woods in een ietwat andere rol bewonderen: als fotomodel in een heuse fashionshoot voor GQ Magazine, samen met onder anderen Jimmy Chin.
Foto: Paul Robinson